2002 Yamaha GP1200R
"Self Sponsored" seems to be the right theme.



Rideplate test
NOTE: The following section is the self-expression of myself based on testing with a highly modified GP1200R in endurance trim. No one had any imput in my testing. I test the boat I ride and race. There are other available plates and system, but I can't comment on them. I have no agenda... other than to find the best plate for my setup and conditions I ride in. If you don't like it, then don't read it. CHEERS!!!

-No changes to setup to satisfy marketing hype.
 

Test conditions: Saguaro Lake, 1300ft, glass conditions, boat chop, fairly smooth water conditions.
Handling setup: Protec sponsons-down, R&D mech-tabs(set to flat at lowest position), Riva Pro Shoe/Grate (optional diamond cut grate-if time permits), no hull mods, R&D auto drop rec nozzle(set to 3deg), 3deg nozzle, 14vienSB with 14/19RivaSB prop. Engine setup is primarily a 70mph Endurance/Rec Stage 3 running 91octane/Av gas mix (50% or less), with standard go-fast goodies.  Rider is 315 in full gear. 5gallons gas for testing. Seating position is in lower saddle for rough water, and standing for smooth. This is how I ride, so this is how I test.


List Price
Fit and Finish
_________________________
Rough Water Speed
Smooth Water Speed
Accel using "Buttmeter"
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Rough Water "Attitude"
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Smooth Water "Attitude" 
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Stock
$0-$15
Very good for a cast part. Standard Variances from machine to machine. Part lines up, first time, every time. Transition from shoe to plate is very flat and sealed.
60
70
The standard. It tends to push a lot of water before popping up.
GLUED to the water. No bounce, no misdirection or trackin issues. No reason to expect a getoff at any time. Turns are predictable, and smooth. Pump unloading is best in class. Leaves you wanting more speed. Plate is even MORE glued to the water. The best plate to judge detonation limits. Turning is downright boring and predictable. How hard can you hold on!?
R&D/Riva
$170
Variences from Plate to Plate. Grinding is sometimes required to clear pumps and other stuff. Both companies very good about replacing manuf defects on part. Plate lines up, first time, every time, however, watch for flatness and centering of components.
55
74
Better than stock. Hull "leaps" forward, and helps get it out of water more. Can induce "off the line" porpoising.
Not designed for rough water. Plate can easily come unhooked in rough water. If spaced down with washers, rough water speed decreases even further due to side-plate scrubbing. Turns can cause a chine hop and "digging" if not controlled by rider. Pump unloading is TERRIBLE, and is probably a cause for crank failure. My assumption is that this plate was design to win smooth water grudge races. It is fast on glass, and quick out of the hole to boot. This is the "River King" of rideplates. Turning is pretty quick and tends to "whip" around on you if possible.
ShredMaster
$450
Grinding seems to be the word of the day. Speedo 4-bolts did not line up properly on this plate. Holes had been drilled out by owner to fit his ski. It BARELY FIT my holes. I HOPE I did not damage my stock rideplate inserts. Posted letters from ShredMaster indicate any problems you find are only YOUR problem, and nobody else has them. It is a very "pretty" plate, and has a cool look. 62 69 Not much different than stock. Possibly pushes a tad more water, but seems to pop out about the same. Good hookup keeps the ski from hopping in just about any condition. Absolutely, a rough water plate. The rear "rudder" on this plate makes for a very planted attitude. This plate could load your engine in mild rough water. The pump tends to stay full as well. Not a bad plate for closed course or ocean riding. This plate does not work for smooth water. It is way too planted and leaves you wanting more and more. You will sieze your motor trying to lean for more speed...DON'T. Richen the motor. It's actually lugging your engine. The plate turns very nicely in both rough and smooth...better hold on.
Pro-Tec-
sorry, no pic.
$170
Plate lines up, first time, every time. Grinding not found to be needed. Pro-tec has always been an up-front company. If the part is not correct, they will make it correct. Good folks.
56
72
Not much different than stock. Not bad, not good.
A nice comprimise between rough water ability and smooth water ride. I like this plate with 2-up riding. Still this plate can induce bounce in rougher conditions. Not a good "race plate", but very good for rec riders, lake riders. Pump unloading is not severe, but is noticeably worse than stock. Very stable and predictable. You find yourself pulling back on the bars, or leaning out your carbs. Turning does not seem to be a problem. No strange tendencies.
Stock GPR plate
RD/Riva
Shred Master
Pro-Tec, Sorry no pic. If you have a pic I can use, send it in and I'll post it.


Carbon Fiber Sponsons
-Found best bite in down position.
-Installed 2 inch SST fender washers to keep from deforming plastic.
-Used Clear RTV on backing plate, and Blue Loctite on screws.



Pro Taper Handlebars
-Mounted on stock stem using an adapter pictured in 2nd picture.
-Honda CR500 high bars seem to be best for me.
-Mounts on UMI steering with a little machine work.
-Left brake lever is for the mechanical trim tabs. The pull is super light.
-The "green" pieces are adaptors for the oversized bars.




Mechanical Trim Tabs
-R&D/Riva mech trim tabs used for rough water control.
-Better smooth water speed than extended tabs, due to ability to set them higher.
-Stock ride plate gives ultimate rough water ability.
-Stock Plate is cut to fit tabs. Not in current pics.



Auto-Drop Nozzle
-Talk about fun! This thing is great for CC type turns.
-Do not set up too "down" or you will scrub speed.
-Do not set up too "agressive" on the turn bars or the ski can skip coming into rough corners.
-This mod is frown upon by most speed junkies.



Aquavien Pro Shoe/Grate
-Very subjective mod. Results are not easy to track.
-Noted rough water speed (2-4ft boat traffic wakes) increased from 55mph to 58mph.
-Quality was sub-par. It took lots of grinding to get the shoe "flat" to bottom of hull.
-Used allen head bolts, which needed shaving down to keep from hanging below shoe.
-Shoe's loading ramp is same angle as stock shoe/grate, which is a very nice advantage over 2 bar design.
-No more shoe inserts needed...it's a solid piece.



Pump/Impeller
-Very expensive mod (upwards $1400), with subjective results..Rough water speed increase, Smooth water decrease.
-Quality of Skat Pumps and Bearing have been questioned. Look into upgrading bearings.
-External water line adaptors, such as this R/D unit, must be modified to fit liner.
-Driveshafts have been found out of round. Have it checked before you install it.
-2002 GPR requires different driveshaft than 00, 01, 03, or upgrade shaft to match.



2002 GPR pump versus 00,01,03,ect...

Posted on rec.sports.jetski
Skat-Trak "Set-Back" Magnum Pump info. W/ 2002 GP1200R

The reason for this memo is to simply inform anyone that is planning on selling, or buying a set-back Magnum for a 2002 GPR that they need to hold off until a new driveshaft shaft is available. After some investigation, we have reason to believe that Yamaha has changed part of the driveline system for the 2002 Yamaha GP1200R. Basically, the driveline coupler has been relocated further back in the hull, which requires a shorter length driveshaft. The reason this is of importance with the set-back pump, is because until the driveshaft manufacture/Skat-Trak releases a revised shaft for this pump, it will not work on a 2002 GPR. The shaft/pump will engage, but there will be approximately 2" gap between the mating surface of the stator section and the impeller housing. You will however, be able to use a "standard"  Magnum E-75 pump, using your stock driveshaft.
Approximate date for the new length shaft that will allow the pump to engage properly is unknown at this time (but we're guessing about a month). Here is some info. that may be of use to you:
'00-'01 Driveshaft length- 644mm (or 25.4")
'02 Driveshaft length- 592mm (or 23.3")
You can't simply change the shaft and go, because there are a few other differences in parts that mate the shaft, including the diameter of the coupler shaft (3mm smaller).
If you want to change the parts on the '02 GPR to make an existing pump/shaft work:
1) Driveshaft- 68Y-45511-00 ($246.98 retail)
2) Intermediate sleeve (coupler shaft)- 68N-51323-00 ($206.38 retail)
3) Flange coupling (5-finger coupling)- 68N-45593-00 ($ n/a)
4) Washer- 90201-248M5-00 ($1.33)
These are the 2002 numbers, you'd need to get the '01 numbers and cross reference.

I do not know if there have been any changes with the '02 XLT 1200.

Hopefully, this will save you and your customers some valuable time.
David Stewart
Impros



-Stock blades are already "burn victims"... Yamaha, what were you thinking? Another shot of the cavitation marks... Less than 5 hours on ski.
-Solas 13/19 on left, stock style on right.
-From a top down view, the original looks like a NuJet.
-The Solas looks like a modified swirl.
-Shaft tool to hold driveshaft while doing prop work.
-Using a pipe wrench to hold the shaft tool, and an adjustable (large) to tighten the new prop. Clockwise, loosen.
-Top down view of the pump, shaft, and new 13/19.
-Final installation of the Pro-Cone onto the Solas 13/19.
-All the shiny new parts...
-Fresh outta Da box!
-This is what the Solas looks like installed WITH the stock washer in place. Note the large gap between pump/prop.
-Removal of the stock washer for a tighter fit of pump/prop.
-The stock washer removed.
-Ah, the finished product. On to the water.

Installation of the new "Talon" Prop cone.

One problem, that keeps returning is the prop boot. The stock solas boot "mushrooms" out, even on a stock boat. The "set screw" style will eventually work loose, and wobble like no tommorow. The latest one to try is made of ultra-tough PFMB plastic. It is machined to "snap" into the Solas groove. It's a one shot deal. There is no re-use, unless you get real lucky.

-Close up installed.
-Viewed installed on prop/pump.
Close up installed.
-Comparisons to other types.

-Using a piece of 3/4" pvc, drive the Talon onto the prop. Your done. To remove it, cut it lengthwise with a razor, and take pliers to it. Dispose of and replace with a new Talon.



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