Rideplate
test
NOTE: The following section is the self-expression
of myself based on testing with a highly modified GP1200R in endurance
trim. No one had any imput in my testing. I test the boat I ride and race.
There are other available plates and system, but I can't comment on them.
I have no agenda... other than to find the best plate for my setup and
conditions I ride in. If you don't like it, then don't read it. CHEERS!!!
-No changes to setup to satisfy marketing hype.
Test conditions: Saguaro Lake, 1300ft, glass conditions, boat chop,
fairly smooth water conditions.
Handling setup: Protec sponsons-down, R&D mech-tabs(set to flat
at lowest position), Riva Pro Shoe/Grate (optional diamond cut grate-if
time permits), no hull mods, R&D auto drop rec nozzle(set to 3deg),
3deg nozzle, 14vienSB with 14/19RivaSB prop. Engine setup is primarily
a 70mph Endurance/Rec Stage 3 running 91octane/Av gas mix (50% or less),
with standard go-fast goodies. Rider is 315 in full gear. 5gallons
gas for testing. Seating position is in lower saddle for rough water, and
standing for smooth. This is how I ride, so this is how I test.
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Smooth Water "Attitude"
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Stock |
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Very good for a cast part. Standard Variances from machine to machine. Part lines up, first time, every time. Transition from shoe to plate is very flat and sealed. |
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GLUED to the water. No bounce, no misdirection or trackin issues. No reason to expect a getoff at any time. Turns are predictable, and smooth. Pump unloading is best in class. | Leaves you wanting more speed. Plate is even MORE glued to the water. The best plate to judge detonation limits. Turning is downright boring and predictable. How hard can you hold on!? |
R&D/Riva |
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Variences from Plate to Plate. Grinding is sometimes required to clear pumps and other stuff. Both companies very good about replacing manuf defects on part. Plate lines up, first time, every time, however, watch for flatness and centering of components. |
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Not designed for rough water. Plate can easily come unhooked in rough water. If spaced down with washers, rough water speed decreases even further due to side-plate scrubbing. Turns can cause a chine hop and "digging" if not controlled by rider. Pump unloading is TERRIBLE, and is probably a cause for crank failure. | My assumption is that this plate was design to win smooth water grudge races. It is fast on glass, and quick out of the hole to boot. This is the "River King" of rideplates. Turning is pretty quick and tends to "whip" around on you if possible. |
ShredMaster |
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Grinding seems to be the word of the day. Speedo 4-bolts did not line up properly on this plate. Holes had been drilled out by owner to fit his ski. It BARELY FIT my holes. I HOPE I did not damage my stock rideplate inserts. Posted letters from ShredMaster indicate any problems you find are only YOUR problem, and nobody else has them. It is a very "pretty" plate, and has a cool look. | 62 | 69 | Not much different than stock. Possibly pushes a tad more water, but seems to pop out about the same. Good hookup keeps the ski from hopping in just about any condition. | Absolutely, a rough water plate. The rear "rudder" on this plate makes for a very planted attitude. This plate could load your engine in mild rough water. The pump tends to stay full as well. Not a bad plate for closed course or ocean riding. | This plate does not work for smooth water. It is way too planted and leaves you wanting more and more. You will sieze your motor trying to lean for more speed...DON'T. Richen the motor. It's actually lugging your engine. The plate turns very nicely in both rough and smooth...better hold on. |
Pro-Tec-
sorry, no pic. |
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Plate lines up, first time, every time. Grinding not found to be needed. Pro-tec has always been an up-front company. If the part is not correct, they will make it correct. Good folks. |
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A nice comprimise between rough water ability and smooth water ride. I like this plate with 2-up riding. Still this plate can induce bounce in rougher conditions. Not a good "race plate", but very good for rec riders, lake riders. Pump unloading is not severe, but is noticeably worse than stock. | Very stable and predictable. You find yourself pulling back on the bars, or leaning out your carbs. Turning does not seem to be a problem. No strange tendencies. |
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Posted on rec.sports.jetski
Skat-Trak "Set-Back" Magnum Pump info. W/ 2002
GP1200R
The reason for this memo is to simply inform anyone
that is planning on selling, or buying a set-back Magnum for a 2002 GPR
that they need to hold off until a new driveshaft shaft is available. After
some investigation, we have reason to believe that Yamaha has changed part
of the driveline system for the 2002 Yamaha GP1200R. Basically, the driveline
coupler has been relocated further back in the hull, which requires a shorter
length driveshaft. The reason this is of importance with the set-back pump,
is because until the driveshaft manufacture/Skat-Trak releases a revised
shaft for this pump, it will not work on a 2002 GPR. The shaft/pump will
engage, but there will be approximately 2" gap between the mating surface
of the stator section and the impeller housing. You will however, be able
to use a "standard" Magnum E-75 pump, using your stock driveshaft.
Approximate date for the new length shaft that
will allow the pump to engage properly is unknown at this time (but we're
guessing about a month). Here is some info. that may be of use to you:
'00-'01 Driveshaft length- 644mm (or 25.4")
'02 Driveshaft length- 592mm (or 23.3")
You can't simply change the shaft and go, because
there are a few other differences in parts that mate the shaft, including
the diameter of the coupler shaft (3mm smaller).
If you want to change the parts on the '02 GPR
to make an existing pump/shaft work:
1) Driveshaft- 68Y-45511-00 ($246.98 retail)
2) Intermediate sleeve (coupler shaft)- 68N-51323-00
($206.38 retail)
3) Flange coupling (5-finger coupling)- 68N-45593-00
($ n/a)
4) Washer- 90201-248M5-00 ($1.33)
These are the 2002 numbers, you'd need to get
the '01 numbers and cross reference.
I do not know if there have been any changes with the '02 XLT 1200.
Hopefully, this will save you and your customers
some valuable time.
David Stewart
Impros
One problem, that keeps returning is the prop boot. The stock solas boot "mushrooms" out, even on a stock boat. The "set screw" style will eventually work loose, and wobble like no tommorow. The latest one to try is made of ultra-tough PFMB plastic. It is machined to "snap" into the Solas groove. It's a one shot deal. There is no re-use, unless you get real lucky.
-Close
up installed.
-Viewed
installed on prop/pump.
Close
up installed.
-Comparisons
to other types.
-Using a piece of 3/4" pvc, drive the Talon onto the prop. Your done. To remove it, cut it lengthwise with a razor, and take pliers to it. Dispose of and replace with a new Talon.
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Send Email inquiries to: mer43@cox.net |
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