Parts used:
Factory Pipe, triple pipes.
3/8" Rubber water lines.
1/2" Rubber water lines.
5/8" Rubber water lines.
Many SST clamps.
R&D Triple water cooling block.
2x R&D 1/2" thru hull fittings.
1/2" x1/4"npt brass fittings for flanges.
Cambell Hausfell 3x1 air line adaptor.
6x 3/8"  pissers.
 
 
 

Install was straight forward, with no major hitches.
2 areas that were rather touchy:
    *Getting the cat/con pipe in/out of hull
    *Getting the water box coupler to hook up after re-install.
Speed was unchanged with no acceleration change.
Under seat temperature ARE much cooler. I tested the ski before the removal, with a whopping 95F after a 3 minute WOT run. After install, I would get around 80F on the same 3 minute run. Both days, ambient was around 80.
 

The Cat-Con removed after 5 hours. Still looks good.

-The Cat-Con housing separated, with the support bracket.

Another angle.

-The R&D D-Plate still in the wrapper.

-Re-Assembled and ready to go in.

-Cat-Con Pipe is removed.

Waterbox Coupler below ignition box.
 

-Top view of the carbs, with the Cat-Con pipe removed. High speed adjuster caps can be seen.

Riva Stinger III
In an effort to boost low and mid power, I installed the Riva Yamaha Stinger 3 system. Unfortunately, since I have no Radar graphs to check before/after, this was done as part of a Riva "Stage 2" upgrade kit. Installation of the stinger 3 was straightforward, with the exception of the stinger install itself. I had to use a rubber mallet to "shove" the stinger inside the stock pipe. I dread having to pull it back out!!! The top speed was unaffected. Before and after were roughly 67 mph, before rough water handling mods.

Both of the lord mounts are not stainless, so paint them before installation, or they will look like this.

The Riva Stinger 3 with a "Jet Works" flow control valve to keep the pipe dry at low RPM's.

Stock Cat/Con pipe removed, with new F/A installed. Also put in stuffers, and jetting from WPP.

Finished pics of the stinger 3. The alignment of the top pipe kinda "looks" off centered, but it works. The lord mounts are not SST so paint them before assembly. The lower pipe can use the stock temp sensor... and I advise it.

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EGT sensor installation.
The EGT install was an act in creativity at every turn on the single pipe. Not only did we have to drill/reweld/tap/drill/seal, but general we guessed at the best location for the probes. Bluewater GPR provided the best pics to work from.

Exhaust manifold after drilling, and tapping, before final filling. We final filled it to reduce the porosity of the metal deep in the hole.

EGT probe in the package.

Finished manifold with sensors installed around 1/2 to 3/4" inside of pipe.

Even though I was told it could not be done, I removed the stock manifold, by only taking off the first section of the expansion chamber, with little problems. I definitely would suggest 10/12/13 mm U-joint sockets, as well as wobble extensions, and patience.

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Free Flow Sound Restrictor Removal
The free flow kit is probably not a good purchase unless you plan to race. If you are keeping stock compression, then you do not need it anyway. If you spend any amount of time in the 3000 rpm range, I would not suggest it. However, due to heat, deto, and reliability issues, if you run a 155 psi or greater head, then install the tube in place of the sound restrictor.

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